BEYOND TRACK LIMITS
THE CANAL TRIP...
One of Mexico City's most unusual attractions is the borough of Xochimilco, which is known for its canals. You can take boat trips through the floating gardens, but keep an eye out for the Island of the Dolls, which features hundreds of dolls -- said to represent the spirits of dead children -- hanging from trees. The rest of Xochimilco is more upbeat and brightly coloured, don't worry!
THE WITCHES' MARKET...
Mexico may be a country heaving with markets, but there's nothing quite like the capital's Mercado de Sonora, also known as the witches' market. Open daily near metro Merced, the market stocks everything from amulets and figurines to potions and magical items. The market also sells more traditional items, but it's the witchery that sets Sonora apart.
THE UNMISSABLE RESTAURANT...
I went to Casa Awolly for the first time last October and it was my most memorable meal of the year. Tucked away down an unassuming side street near Reforma, Casa Awolly serves all manner of fresh and modern food, from excellent salads and bright, punchy ceviches to bone marrow that's worth trading a kidney for.